Kit's Silver Age Comic Books
Grading Guide & Comic Book Collecting Tips
The condition of comics is one of the most important things in collecting comic books. Since comics are damaged easily, high condition old books are rarer than lower condition comics. Comics from after 1978 have little or no value unless they are in near mint or like new condition. Below, is a list of the various grades. I have divided the categories into three additional sub categories. I usually do not use these, but a lot of dealers do, when it comes to valuable older books.
Biggest Rookie Mistake made in grading.
The biggest mistake anyone can make, is in grading comic books that are over 30 years old ( I am not talking about comics that are printed after 1975, because there are a lot of these comics. Most of them have no value unless they are in near mint. That is because near mint copies are fairly common after 1975. After 1970 there were higher print runs of comics & more people began preserving their comics properly.) Too many people start out by looking up the near mint price of a comic & say to themselves; "It is not perfect, but near mint is not perfect either, so it is in near mint." 95% of all comic books printed before 1970 are not perfect. Most comic books are average copies & 90% grade in the very good range. The fact is, near mint comics are very rare even on the news stand & are extremely rare if they are over 30 years old. The biggest complaint I have heard about E-bay, is that a lot of people over grade their comics. The best advice, is to start at very good & work your way up the grading scale.
This service costs at least $25 per book. Most people only use this service for high grade key issues. Very Fine issues with numeric grades above 8.0 that have been graded by the CGC Grading Service can bring a lot more than Overstreet. One drawback is that they are sealed in a plastic sleeve & can no longer be read.
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MINT
(MT) Near perfect in every way. Only the
most subtle bindery or printing I put none of my books in the mint category, although many qualify. |
NEAR MINT (NM (9.4), NM+, NM/MT) Nearly perfect. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Cover inks are |
VERY
FINE (VF (8.0), VF+, VF/NM (9.0))
An excellent copy with outstanding eye appeal.
Sharp, bright and |
FINE
(FN (6.0), FN+, FN/VF) An
exceptional, above average copy that shows minor wear but
still |
VERY
GOOD (VG (4.0), VG+, VG/FN) The average
used comic book, that has not been taken care of by
proper |
GOOD
(GD (2.0), GD+, GD/VG) This comic has all
pages and covers, although there may be small rips |
FAIR
(FR) Very heavily read
and soiled, but still complete. Damaged beyond |
POOR
(PR) Sufficiently degraded so as to have
little or no collector value. |
Collecting Comics The best advice for collecting comics is to collect what you like. Although, like everything else comic prices have gone way up comics are not the best investment, unless you have a high grade key issues. So, collect what you love & if it goes up in value great. If it does not go up in value that is ok too. Collecting as an investment Collecting comics can be a good investment, but like anything you must know the down side. Okay, say I buy a comic for $100 & it goes up to a $150. The problem is, that you must sell it for $150 to realize the $50 profit. To do this you must find someone that will pay you $150. Like my Dad says, "It is only worth what someone will pay you for it.". For example, I bought Showcase #34 for $20 in 1990. It was worth about $100 at that time. It is now worth about $1000. In order to sell it I might have to sell it for $500. Okay, this is an up side. High grade key issues always do well. Anyway, I have Showcase #34 priced at $1300 (much too high, please do not buy it.). I think I will raise it to $1500 when the new price guide comes out. Back to the down side. I had to spend a year building a web site to have a place to sell it. This is not completely true see Selling Comics Get the highest grade possible. Although, you can get a good comic for one tenth of what it would cost for a near mint comic, the higher the grade, the more comic is sought after. Learn as much as you can about your hobby. Like anything else knowledge is power. The best resource for comic books is The Overstreet Comic Book Price Guide How I started collecting. When I was about ten years old, my Uncle Roy owned a small grocery store that had comic books. All the unsold comics would be taken home after a while, which he would give to my cousins. My cousins gave us all the duplicates. Once, I started reading them I was hooked. My favorite was Uncle Scrooge. I liked his adventurous nature & of course, his three cubic acres of money. I did not start buying my own comics until several years later. I found a used book store that sold used comics for half of cover price. I would also buy them new off the news stand if I could find them. It was not until I was in the Navy that my collection started to explode. I traveled all over and bought any Ducks I could find & any ten or twelve cent comic for under a dollar. I never was planning to do anymore than read them until, I had a friend that had an almost complete collection of silver age DC comics that he was selling. I could get about ten nice comics for a quart of cheap vodka (but that is another story). In 1994, I tried to sell comics through the Comic Buyers Guide. I was fairly successful, but I never added any books but the silver age DC. In 1999 I got a computer and started selling on the Internet. Now I buy thousands of dollars worth of comics at a time & my collection is exploding again. I will have to stop before I become totally covered in comics.. Comic Book Preservation Store comics away from direct light. Light fades them. Keep you comics away from extreme temperatures (50-75 degrees Fahrenheit). Do not store them in a hot attic. They will turn brown & crumble into dust. (heat activates the acid in the paper and causes a chemical reaction that results in browning) Comics do best in a humidity around or below 50%. Do not store them in a damp basement. They will mold. I do not know why bugs like comics, but they do. If you put them in bags the bugs can't get them. Comic Bag & Boards Before 1970 most comics were not bagged or boarded. First there were no suppliers of boards & bags. (most comics were selling for 15 cents & spending that much on bagging & boarding comics was a major expense, so many were not protected until they were older). Comic Backing Boards In the beginning there were two types of backing boards. One type were acid free & cost about 10 cents each. The second were acid free on one side only & cost 5 cents each. They no longer make the second kind, but you may see some. They are white on one side (the acid free side) & brown on the other (not acid free). If the backing board is all white it is an acid free board. Keep your comics backed with acid free backing boards and in acid free comic bags. This will save your comics from a lot of hazards. I ship all my comics with bags & boards. If you need some extra bags & boards & do not have access to a comic shop, I will sell one bag & one board for $.15. Ten bags & boards would be $1.50. This is about what it costs me. I really do not want to sell bags, but if you want them, I can get them. Buy the 2001 Overstreet Comic Book Price Guide. These are Kit's opinions, assumptions, hypotheses, theories, & laws & no one else. When I was in the Navy I was told never to make assumptions, because when you assume you make an ass of you & me (ass u me). This is true of bad assumptions, but the best shipmates I ever had were constantly making assumptions, good assumptions. |
| Kit Walvoord Copyright © 2008 [Kit's Silver Age Comics]. All rights reserved. LAST UPDATED 02/16/08 09:20 AM |
"A man has got to know his limitations"----Dirty Harry (Magnum Force) right after he blows up the last bad guy---- |